The idea for the 1-motor, 9-tooth pinion setup came from a write-up I read at. I filed down the inside tooth points of the spur gear to clear the grub screw on the pinion. Next I installed a Robinson Racing 9-tooth pinion on the remaining motor. While disassembling the transmission I learned that I used FAR to much Loctite when I constructed the truck. I threaded the motor mount screws into the lexon and hit the threads with a few drops of Super Glue.
I used one of the spacers as a template for the cover. There are cardboard spacers between the motors and the motor plate.
I removed one of the two motors and fabricated a cover plate out of a piece of lexon from a broken E-Maxx body. This pic shows how the 1/4 scale servo and F7 blocks (bottom axle) use different mounting holes. Although 1/4 servos are not mentioned in the TXT-1 assembly instructions, installing the servos is as simple as following the instructions, but replacing all the F6 parts with F7 parts. Both parts are found on the same F parts tree. Note the mounting blocks in the lower right corner. Pay attention to which is which during assembly.Ĭomparing a standard servo to a new 1/4 scale servo. Unlike the plastic stock axle guards, a pair of the optional aluminum axle guards have a right and a left. While I was replacing the steering servos I decided to replace all four axle guards with the optional Tamiya aluminum Axle Guards. I broke one of the stock axle guards last year. The TXT-1's battery pack is at the back, which is where you don't want the weight when your trying to ascend a steep hill. The truck only needs to go fast enough to keep up with me on a hike.ģ) I made the front of the truck the back and the back the front.
With a 9-tooth pinion, the single stock motor still provides more than enough power and still propels the truck at a fast walking speed. Going from two motors to one gives me more run time on a battery pack. But the TXT-1 was designed to accept 1/4 servos, so it's no disadvantage at all.Ģ) I removed one of the two motors and fit the remaining motor with a 9-tooth pinion. Their only disadvantage is that they're big. The 1/4 scale servos are more powerful, faster and less expensive then their standard sized counterparts. But first I had some things I wanted to do before the trip.ġ) I decided to replace both front and rear standard steering servos with 1/4 scale servos. It was time again for me and my TXT-1 to hit the mountains of West Virginia. Update, Summer 2004: Jeff's TXT-1 versus West Virginia (again) or strip the nylon transmission gears.Jeffrey Zweizig Jeff Zweizig Jeffrey Zweizig Jeff Zweizig Im planning on fitting 2x15T triples to my TXT-1 with Duel 8.4v 3000Mah Sanyo power, should give the performace a kick up the back side. On the subject of Official Tamiya TXT-1 hop-ups Ive seen some funky light weight chassis side frames in anodised purple and some equally spiffing purple aluminium battery covers, they were being sold on Ebay by one of those Hong-kong MIB merchants so I imagine they are quite new bits out and will take a while to filter over here, he was retailing the Chassis sides at about $55 the pair.īut un-official Hop-ups. The only downside to doing this is that it lowers the ride hight slightly and reduces the suspension travel in equal measure, but its a small price to pay for sorting out the twist problem and it gives the truck a slight agressive "nose down" attitude. in other words instead of having the long arm facing down, swap it round so its facing up instead, the best way to do this is take the cranks off from both sides and switch them round while turning them upside down at the same time, otherwise you would have to un-screw all the the ball ends and put them in the other side, once you have swapped the cranks over, reconnect the push rods and shocks and you will find that the suspension is much stiffer at the front and it practically eliminates any twist. On the front suspension all you have to do is turn the shock push rod bell cranks upside down.
#Txt 1 hop ups mod#
Ive found that this Mod is best performed with the front suspension ONLY, you can leave the rear suspension stock except perhaps to add a thickish spacer to each of the springs to stiffen then up a bit. I have a trick to stop the "Torque Twist" in TXT-1 chassis during accelleration, it's a simple trick to do and whats more dosen't need any additional parts just a slight re-orientation of the existing suspension set up.
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